Sunday, April 06, 2008

Supplemental Post # 11


Lots of cloud activity across the Carrick Roads this morning (that’s stretch of water, FYI). I should have known. Got mushrooms for breakfast to lay off the eggs for a day. Very tasty, too. I left Falmouth at 9 something and was in Truro by 9:30, walking around for about an hour. The lady on the quay at Falmouth told me that you can easily get here from Falmouth by ferry, which makes a very nice shopping trip. You could get squiffy in the pub before you headed home, too. Truro is gorgeous, a gracious Georgian town reminiscent of Bath. The cathedral is spectacular, I walked around just before the service enjoying the change ringing. If I hadn’t been nervous of the weather I’d have stayed; there is a highly developed choral tradition, I’m sure the choir would have been lovely. Lit a couple of candles and moved on.

The heavens opened up with sleet, hail and snow somewhere around Grampound, all the way through St. Austell to Lostwithiel where I had to to take a comfort break. By the time I got back in the car, the skies had cleared, though it was still really cold -- about 1.5 C. The GPS is a really big help, by the way. I could make do without it, but would have to pull over and look at maps frequently.

I was a bit to early, at 1300, to go out to Little Larnick Farm, where I had booked a stay, so I found a place to park on the edge of Looe and ditched the car. One walk through town (at least on Sunday) would have done me. It seemed crowded and very tourist-tatty. Bu comparison, Penzance & Falmouth are more mixed, I would say, with some good art in Falmouth and some good natural fiber clothes. Truro is most attractive. even posh, at the centre.

I did get some decent fish and chips, though not as good as what I had in Falmouth, and found a sunny sheltered bench to eat them on. Bought some cards in the RNLI shop and enjoyed talking with the volunteer couple who were keeping shop.

The heavens opened up again, but not too badly. I headed for the farm about 3:30. Beautiful countryside, green and rolling. Once you turn off at Pelynt, the road is narrow, one lane with hedgerows. SCARY. But truly lovely, remote. The weather had cleared to cerulean sky and fields were emerald, bordered by starry yellow daffodils and primroses, dotted with black and white sheep. A post card.

Little Larnick means “small clearing.” There is a Much Larnick, too. The farm was easily found, well-posted, and is gracious and comfortable beyond words. I will see about the weather tomorrow and then either go to Fowey or Polperro or perhaps just walk to Looe and back (maybe 3 miles). I’ll have to consult my nerves as well!

I was greeted by Bernard, who was working outside, and sent to the house where Angela settled me in the sitting room, started a fire, and gave me tea and cake. I read a little and really had a chance to unwind. My room, the Apple Loft, is just lovely. A while ago, I just caught the last of Bernard and his dog bringing some sheep home. This is a family farm going back at least three generations, not unlike the place we stayed in Kent several years ago. They are empty nesters now, having raised four girls. One of them comes to help with breakfast.

It’s a sunny evening, but I’m all in (again), so will have an early night and look forward to poking around tomorrow. There are apparently two ladies staying in the house proper who have been to a nearby garden show. Angela and Bernard are off to a concert, as he sings in the Pelynt Male Voice Choir. They have CDs here and there were some in the RNLI shop, too

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